North Korean Economy Watch

Yonhap
12/8/2007

North Korean leader Kim Jong-il has given warm encouragement to local workers developing Mount Paektu, the highest point on the peninsula that will be opened to South Korean tourists next year, the North’s broadcaster said Saturday.

South and North Korea agreed to open a direct flight route between Seoul and the North’s Mount Paektu during their second summit in October. The inter-Korean tour, set to start in May, is organized by South Korea’s Hyundai Group.

Kim “expressed his gratitude to officials and workers who have wholeheartedly supported the development of the Mount Paektu area,” the Korean Central Broadcasting Station, monitored in Seoul, said, naming technicians, researchers and factory workers involved in the project.

Hyun Jeong-eun, chairwoman of the Hyundai Group, agreed with North Korea during her visit to Pyongyang in early November to start in May sightseeing tours of the North’s 2,744-meter mountain, located on its border with China. A group of South Korean government officials and researchers have conducted an on-site inspection.

Mount Paektu will be the third inter-Korean tourism project organized by Hyundai Asan, a unit of the Hyundai Group in charge of North Korea business. North Korea opened its border city of Kaesong to South Korean tourists early this week, following the launch of a tourism program to the North’s east coast mountain of Geumgang nine years ago.

The Mount Paektu and Kaesong tour projects are part of agreements South Korean President Roh Moo-hyun and North Korean leader Kim Jong-il reached during their summit that sought to boost economic cooperation and reduce tension.

Yonhap
12/5/2007

A convoy of 10 South Korean buses drove into North Korea Wednesday across the heavily armed border to visit the city of Kaesong, launching a second tourism project between the two Koreas, said the South Korean company that developed the tour.

The one-day overland tour of Kaesong, a 90-minute drive from Seoul, offers ordinary South Koreans an unusual glimpse of North Korea, one of the world’s most isolated nations, said officials at Hyundai Asan, the company that offers the tour.

It is the second tourism project between the two Koreas by Hyundai Asan, a unit of the South Korean Hyundai conglomerate in charge of most business projects involving the North. Nine years ago it began a tour program to the North’s east coast mountain of Geumgang.

So far, the mountain resort has attracted some 1.5 million tourists, mostly South Koreans. North Korea receives US$50 for every $300 trip to the mountains.

Price of the one-day tour of Kaesong is 180,000 won ($195) per tourist with North Korea keeping $100 for each person, Hyundai Asan said.

Among the first batch of 360 tourists to Kaesong were 87-year-old Kim Yoon-kyung and four-year-old Shim Joo-eun, the South Korean company said.

They left Seoul at around 6:00 a.m. and are scheduled to return around 5:00 p.m., an official at Hyundai Asan said.

The tour of Kaesong offers visits to historical Buddhist temples, scenic waterfalls and other legacies of the city, which was the capital of the Koryo Dynasty that ruled the peninsula between A.D. 918 and 1392, the company said.

Kaesong is also the site of an inter-Korean industrial complex with some 26 South Korean companies manufacturing clothes and kitchenware there.

For years South Korea has been engaging in economic cooperation with North Korea as part of its effort to bridge the economic gap with its impoverished neighbor and prepare for reunification. South Korea’s economy is 35 times bigger than the North’s.

The effort is gaining momentum as North Korea has started disabling its nuclear weapons program and its relationship with the U.S. is improving.

Christopher Hill, the chief U.S. negotiator in international talks aimed at persuading North Korea to dismantle its nuclear program, is on a three-day visit to the North’s nuclear complex in Yongbyon, which produces weapons-grade plutonium, to check the progress of the disablement of the North’s nuclear facilities.

At the same time, the deputy prime ministers of the two Koreas are in a three-day meeting in Seoul to discuss a wide range of economic cooperation projects that South Korean President Roh Moo-hyun and North Korean leader Kim Jong-il agreed to during their summit in October.

Yonhap
Nam Kwang-sik
12/2/2007

The first South Koreans to tie the knot in North Korea wed in a ceremony at Mount Geumgang, a scenic North Korean mountain frequented by South Korean tourists, tour company Hyundai Asan said on Sunday.

Choe Jeong-in, a 32-year-old employee of Hyundai Asan, and Cho Ah-ra, 24, who works for one of Hyundai Asan’s business partners, married in a ceremony at a Mount Geumgang hotel on Saturday, three years after they first met while working at the North Korean resort.

Joong Ang Daily
Ser Myo Ja
11/19/2007

Seo Myeong-hee has traveled the world to see the pyramids of Egypt, the Great Wall of China and the Grand Canyon in the United States, but she said her visit to Chonji, the crater lake on the peak of Mount Paektu, was the best trip of her life.

“It was a beautiful sunny day in May last year. I was just taken away by the magnificent view,” Seo, 57, recalled of her visit to the mountain that straddles the border between China and North Korea. “After walking along the ridge for about three hours, we were there. The lake was a mysterious blue, and there were wildflowers everywhere.”

Standing 2,744 meters (9,002 feet) tall, Mount Paektu has been worshipped for centuries as the place of Korea’s ancestral origins. In addition to its beauty, it is this rich cultural tradition that prompted Seo, like many South Koreans, to travel through China to see the mountain, since there is currently no way to visit the area via North Korea. “It was a five-day trip, but mostly we spent time in Chinese towns seeing ancient ruins of the Goguryeo Kingdom and other tourist attractions,” she said. “The highlight was definitely Mount Paektu, but you have to sit on the bus for many painful hours to actually get there.”

All that, though, is about to change. Last month’s inter-Korean summit finally opened the door for South Koreans to fly directly to the mountain. It promises to be a popular destination once the infrastructure is complete.

In 2005, North Korean leader Kim Jong-il promised Hyundai Asan Chairwoman Hyun Jeong-eun during a visit to Pyongyang that he would allow a tour program for Mount Paektu. Nothing was done for more than two years, however, until the October summit between Kim and President Roh Moo-hyun resulted in a deal to allow passengers to fly from Seoul to an airport on the mountain.

With cooperation from the Korea National Tourism Organization, Hyundai Group’s North Korea business arm, Hyundai Asan, has begun preparations in cooperation with North Korea’s Asia-Pacific Peace Committee, which handles civilian inter-Korean projects.

Hyundai Asan, which has the sole franchise to operate tours to the North from South Korea, plans to begin offering tours to Mount Paektu in May 2008. The only other tour program from the South allows visitors to travel to Hyundai’s resort at Mount Kumgang, a project that began in 1998. A South Korean team including officials from the KNTO, the Roh administration and Hyundai will make an on-site survey of Mount Paektu before the end of this month.

Yoon Man-joon, president of Hyundai Asan, told the JoongAng Daily in an interview Thursday that he is extremely optimistic about the tour project. Yoon and Hyun visited the mountain personally early this month.

“The Mount Kumgang tour had more of a symbolic meaning, because it was the first opportunity for South Koreans to go to North Korea for tourism,” Yoon said. “Mount Paektu, however, has much more potential to succeed solely as a tour program.”

Yoon thinks demand will be high and response immediate once the tours begin. “Mount Kumgang is praised for its scenic beauty, but Mount Paektu is more than that,” Yoon said. “The place is the origin of all Koreans, and it is an extraordinary experience for us to visit there.”

Seo could not agree more. “When I saw Chonji, the crater lake, I became so emotional that I almost cried,” she said. “The lyrics of our national anthem even begin with the mountain ― ‘Until the East Sea’s waves are dry, and Mount Paektu is worn away, God watch o’er our land forever!’”

The mountain has long been considered sacred. In Korea’s creation myth, Hwanung, a son of the Lord of Heaven, was allowed to descend onto Mount Paektu with 3,000 followers and found the City of God.

There a tiger and a bear told Hwanung that they dreamed of becoming human, and Hwanung gave them 20 cloves of garlic and a bundle of mugwort, ordering them to eat only those foods and remain out of the sunlight for 100 days. The tiger failed, but the bear endured and eventually was transformed into a woman.

The bear-woman then prayed for a child, and Hwanung took her for his wife. A son, Dangun, was born, and he built the walled city of Pyongyang and called his kingdom Joseon. Not to be confused with the Joseon Dynasty, the kingdom is referred to in Korean history as Gojoseon or Ancient Joseon. Historians believe his kingdom began in 2,333 B.C.

This mythology is still marked on the modern Korean calendar, with Oct. 3 celebrated as Gaecheonjeol, or National Foundation Day, which marks the establishment of the first Korean kingdom.

The opening of Mount Paektu is not without controversy. Other travel agencies have expressed their displeasure with Hyundai Asan’s monopoly on tours to the famous mountain. On Nov. 13, Shim Joong-mok, the president of the Korea Tourism Association, held a press conference and said the group wants a share of the potentially lucrative market. He said the association, which represents more than 20,000 travel agencies in Korea, may take legal action if their request is not met.

Hyundai Asan President Yoon rebuffed the demand. “The agreement we have with North Korea for exclusive rights to Mount Paektu tourism is a legitimate commercial deal,” Yoon said. “They act as if we received this right for free, but we have made vast investments in North Korea over the past nine years and earned the North Korean authorities’ trust. The tour program was given in return.”

Yoon said the tourism industry should respect market principles. “It would be the same for any other beautiful mountain. Would it make sense for me to develop a resort under an exclusive contract and then have other travel agents demand that they also want to do business there?” Yoon asked. “The travel agents’ demand is unreasonable.”

According to a Hyundai Research Institute report, it will cost up to $1.26 billion to develop a resort on the mountain comparable to the facilities in Pyeongchang, the South Korean city that hopes one day to host the Winter Olympics.

Yoon said he is confident about the Paektu program’s potential, citing his recent visit to the mountain. “There are two lodging facilities built by North Korea on the mountain. One is Sobaeksu State Guest House and the other is Baegyebong Hotel. Both are modern, and they will be usable after some modifications,” Yoon said.

He said the survey team, which will leave before the end of this month, will also study what work is needed for Samjiyon Airport on Mount Paektu to begin receiving flights from South Korea. “We will have a better idea after surveying the runway and traffic tower,” he said, adding that Korean Air and Asiana have both expressed interest in flying to North Korea.

The modernization of the airport may also be expensive. The Ministry of Construction and Transportation said in a report last month that repairs will cost 280 billion won ($304 million).

The price of the tour program is also still to be decided. “It will be competitive with tour programs via China,” Yoon said. “We don’t want to make it too expensive or too cheap.”

Seo said she paid 1.2 million won for her five-day package to visit the mountain via China. “I didn’t think it was too expensive,” Seo said. “If I can fly to the mountain in just two hours at a similar cost, I will be more than willing to go one more time.”

Running a tour program for Mount Paektu is also tricky because there are only few weeks in the year when Chonji Lake can be seen in good weather. “I was happy because the May weather was fantastic,” Seo remembered. “The tour guide said we were lucky because many groups could not see the magnificent view due to the weather.”

According to Yoon, Hyundai Asan is reviewing other plans to use the mountain’s winter weather as a possible attraction for sports and hot springs.

The new tour may take away one small attraction of the Chinese route ― a chance to see the low-key North Korean border with China. “The border is not heavily guarded,” Seo said. “Our guide even allowed us to cross the border on foot. The North Korean guard smiled at us, and we took a souvenir photo together. I gave him a chocolate, and he was really thrilled.”

Yonhap
11/19/2007

A South Korean company operating businesses in North Korea said Monday it plans to add the North’s capital to the itinerary for future tours of the North’s highest peak, located on the border with China.

Hyundai Asan, the North Korean business arm of Hyundai Group, is preparing to launch tours of Mount Paekdu in May next year, after the leaders of the two Koreas agreed to establish direct flights from Seoul to the mountain at the second-ever inter-Korean summit early last month.

“We already asked South and North Korean authorities to include Pyongyang in the tour route to Mt. Paekdu,” said Yoon Man-joon, chief executive officer of Hyundai Asan.

Yoon said he was “optimistic” about adding the North Korean capital to the route because the North shared a “similar view as a business partner.”

Yoon made the remark during a press conference at North Korea’s Mt. Geumgang, where the company operates the only South Korean tourism business in the North, to mark the ninth anniversary of the start of the tourism project.

Although Yoon gave no exact timetable for the Pyongyang tours for ordinary South Koreans, company officials hinted they will probably be available in early 2009.

The Mt. Geumgang tourism program, which started in 1998, is the only one that gives foreign tourists an opportunity to easily see parts of North Korea.

Hyundai Asan is believed to pay hundreds of millions of U.S. dollars to North Korea in fees for the program, which has drawn more than 1.5 million tourists.

At the inter-Korean summit last month, President Roh Moo-hyun and North Korean leader Kim Jong-il agreed that their countries would work together on a wide range of economic projects, even though the two states are still technically at war because the 1950-53 Korean War ended in an armistice.

Korea Times
Ryu Jin
11/16/2007

The Mt. Geumgang tour business marks its ninth anniversary this Sunday. Hyundai Asan, the South Korean operator of the tour project to the resort mountain across the border in North Korea, says that it sees a more prosperous business for its 10th year.

Hyundai Asan is set to hold a ceremony to celebrate the anniversary, which comes after encouraging news such as the agreement with the North to open the 1,638-meter Biro-bong, the highest peak of the auspicious mountain, early next year.

According to the firm, a total of 1.72 million people have so far visited the “caged” area of the tightly controlled Stalinist nation over the past nine years since Nov. 18, 1998, when the cruise ship “Geumgang” arrived at the site for the first time.

A land route was opened through the heavily militarized border in 2003, terminating the cost-heavy sea travel from 2004 onwards. And North Korea opened more and more sites including “Naegeumgang” (the inner, western part of the mountain).

A company spokesman expects that the number of Mt. Geumgang travelers this year, which has already exceeded 300,000 as of October, to reach above 350,000 by the end of the year, a new record.

Hyundai Asan’s successful business, despite some political uncertainties in recent years, is largely due to its endeavors to diversify tours in the limited area of the 530-square kilometer mountain.

The Naegaumgang Tour, launched last June, added more prospects for South Korean climbers who until then could only enjoy “Oegeumgang” (the outer part of the mountain) and “Haegeumgang” (the seashore).

Beside, cultural events such as concerts as well as visits to hot springs and restaurants with unique Northern cuisine, an 18-hole golf course and a duty-free shop that opened in the resort area recently, will provide visitors with additional pleasures.

However, some experts point out that there remains much to be done in order for the Mt. Geumgang tourism business, which still remains largely a symbol of inter-Korean reconciliation, to be reborn as a more lucrative business.

The complicated processes of immigration control in addition to the long journey of 4-5 hours to the eastern coastal area are among major problems that should be addressed, along with the insufficient infrastructure such as hotel accommodation.

“We plan to expand facilities in the tourism zone further, as more visitors will come to the mountain when Biro-bong is opened next year,” the company spokesman said. “In particular, we will also pay attention to more safety measures.”

The most authoritative map of North Korea on Google Earth
North Korea Uncovered: Version 6
Download it here

This map covers North Korea’s agriculture, aviation, cultural locations, manufacturing facilities, railroad, energy infrastructure, politics, sports venues, military establishments, religious facilities, leisure destinations, and national parks. It is continually expanding and undergoing revisions. This is the sixth version.

Additions to the newest version of North Korea Uncovered include: Alleged Syrian nuclear site (before and after bombing), Majon beach resort, electricity grid expansion, Runga Island in Pyongyang, Mt. Ryongak, Yongbyon historical fort walls, Suyang Fort walls and waterfall in Haeju, Kaechon-Lake Taesong water project, Paekma-Cholsan waterway, Yachts (3), and Hyesan Youth Copper Mine.

Disclaimer: I cannot vouch for the authenticity of many locations since I have not seen or been to them, but great efforts have been made to check for authenticity. These efforts include pouring over books, maps, conducting interviews, and keeping up with other peoples’ discoveries. In many cases, I have posted sources, though not for all. This is a thorough compilation of lots of material, but I will leave it up to the reader to make up their own minds as to what they see. I cannot catch everything and I welcome contributions.

Daily NK
Moon Sung Hwee
11/9/2007

The conservative wing in South Korea purported that the opening of the direct Seoul-Baekdu air route would not lead to reforms and open-door policies of North Korea as proved in the case of Geumkang Mountain sightseeing. Hyundai Asan Co. and Korean Asia-Pacific Peace Committee of North Korea have just made a contract for the direct airline staring May next year.

Individuals who travel Mt. Geumkang by land will pass Yuongwoong Middle School, and Onjeong-ri and Yangji village on both sides of the road, all of which are walled off from tourists. Even in Geumkang Mountain, many places are enclosed with iron railings and armed soldiers are guarding them.

Many defectors originally from the Mt. Baekdu areas say that the locals have relatively ease access to the mountain, and so the sightseeing tour of Baekdu Mountain would bring considerable impact on the locals.

The sightseeing tour of Mt. Baekdu passes through Lake Cheonji and Yimyungsoo Waterfall, both of which are popular visiting places for many locals, and Samjiyeon ski resort is located in nearby villages.

Furthermore, every year hundreds of thousands pay a visit to many revolutionary sites in Mount Baekdu. When the tour begins in May next year, the locals and visitors would inevitably run into South Korean tourists. Many people wonder what the North Korean authorities would do about the contact before tourism begins.

According to the Hyundai Asan Co., tourists will fly a direct airline to Samjiyeon Airport and stay at either Sobacksu Visitor’s Hall or Begaebong Hotel. Then, they will visit Sobaeksu Forest, Yimyungsoo Waterfall, Mangchun Peak, Jangkoon Peak and Cheonji Lake.

Tourists must pass through the downtown of Samjiyeon in order to get to Mount Baekdu from Samjiyeon Airport. Unlike Onjong-ri located nearby Geumkang Mountain, it is difficult to close off many places in the Baekdu Mountain areas especially those densely populated villages around Yimyungsoo Waterfall and Samjiyeon ski resort.

In July, 2005, Hyundai Corporation had also once made a contract with North Korea for the development of the Baekdu Mountain areas for tourism. But it was not successful back then because North Korea had a conflict with the Hyundai over economic cooperation and so grew reluctant to cooperate with the corporation as the day for a pilot sightseeing to Mt. Baekdu approached. Moreover, It was difficult for the North Korean authorities to ignore the fact that hundreds of thousands of people make a field trip to many revolutionary sites in the Mt. Backdu areas every year.

The Mt. Baekdu areas have many national treasures such as Mt. Baekdu Billet publicized as Kim Jong Il’s birthplace, the so-called “slogan tree” (referring to those cherished trees which are inscribed with anti-Japanese slogans and the eulogy for Kim Il Sung, and supposedly carved by Kim Il Sung’s soldiers during his anti-Japanese struggle), and many other historical sites and monuments. In fact, Mr. Baekdu is considered sacred and lies at the center of “Su-Ryeong Absolutism” (the idolization of the late Kim Il Sung). The North Korean authorities use the national treasures in Mt. Baekdu to mystify Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il.

The itinerary of North Korean people who make a field trip to Mt. Baekdu for two nights and three days is planned as follows. First, they arrive to Samjiyeon Pond by train, and visit Kim Jong Il’s birthplace and Samjiyeon Monument. Next day, they go to Lake Cheonji. On the last day, they pay a visit to the first slogan tree at Gunchang Billet and Begaebong Billet, and Yimyongsoo Waterfall. The problem is that the itinerary of North Korean field trippers is the same as that of South Korean tourists.

Therefore, it is not clear yet whether the North Korean authorities would really open the tourist route in the Mt. Baekdu areas for South Koreas as scheduled in May next year.

It seems that the North Korean authorities allowed the development of Mt. Baekdu because they now have the knowledge and skill to manage tourism business from years of experience of operating Geumkang Mountain tourism business. In addition, the North Korean authorities might have figured out that tourism business normally does not directly lead to reforms and open-door policies.

It is impossible for the North Korean authorities to relocate all residents in the Mt. Baekdu areas. Therefore, they will likely relocate those who have “bad family background” among the residents. (North Korea is highly stratified by class based on family background.) Moreover, the authorities will likely build a block wall designed to keep the residents from encountering South Korean tourists, and construct a new road for tourists.

However, if the itinerary of North Koreans overlaps with that of South Korean tourists, two groups will inevitably have an encounter with each other. Even if North Korean field trippers go on foot and South Koreans travel by bus, two groups will confront each other at tourist attractions such as Samjiyeon Pond, Samjiyeon Monument, Begaebong Peek, Gunchang, and Lake Cheonji.

The North Korean authorities may have North Koreans make a field trip to Mt. Baekdu between November and April during which Samjiyeon Airport has to be closed due to ice on the runaways, and therefore the sightseeing trip is unavailable.

In other words, Mt. Baekdu will be available for half a year for North Korean field trippers and for the rest half for South Korean tourists. However, that is not likely to be a solution since it is difficult to make a trip to Mt. Baekdu during winter due to bad weather conditions. Indeed, the authorities have been restricting the field trip to Mr. Baekdu during the winter period.

A defector from Yangkang Province said, “The authorities may build a new road for tourists or change the tourism schedule.” The defector added, “Once the tour begins, North Korean field trippers will take more interest in South Korean tourists than the legendary struggle for revolution by Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il.”

Asia Times
11/9/2007

[excerpt]
North Korea said this week it will allow a South Korean business group to start sightseeing tours of a scenic mountain on its border with China next year, as agreed at a recent inter-Korean summit of leaders.

Pyongyang’s contract with the Hyundai Group will enable South Koreans to visit the 2,744-meter-high Mt Paektu by direct flight. Currently, South Koreans can only visit the Chinese side of the mountain.

“Both sides agreed to start the tour of noted places on Mt Paektu from May of 2008,” the (North) Korean Central News Agency (KCNA)said of the contract signed between Hyundai Group chairwoman Hyun Jeong-eun and Choe Sung-chol, vice chairman of the Asia-Pacific Peace Committee, a North Korean state organization handling inter-Korean affairs.

Hyun, back from a five-day trip to North Korea, met reporters in Seoul and confirmed the contract. “Under the agreement, Hyundai Group will have exclusive rights to operate the tourism business to Mt Paektu for 50 years,” Hyun said, disclosing that she also met with the North’s top leader, Kim Jong-il, during her stay in the communist country.

The sightseeing tour of the tallest mountain on the Korean Peninsula expands Hyundai’s business with North Korea, which currently includes a cross-border tour of Mt Kumgang on the North’s east coast. More than 1 million South Koreans have visited the mountain since the tours started in 1998.

Most Koreans regard Mt Paektu as a holy area where their mythical leader, Tangun, descended from heaven and established a kingdom. North Korea claims that its current leader, Kim Jong-il, was also born there 65 years ago, an event heralded by the appearance of a double rainbow over the mountain and a new star in the heavens. (However, former Soviet Union records show he was born in Siberia, in 1941, where his father, Kim Il-sung, commanded the 1st Battalion of the Soviet 88th Brigade, made up of Chinese and Korean exiles.)

North Korea also claims that the mountain was a base for the independence movement against Japan’s colonial rule of Korea led by the communist nation’s founder, Kim Il-sung, in the early part of the 20th century.

Hyundai has been at the vanguard of business with North Korea since its founder, Chung Ju-yung, crossed the heavily armed demilitarized zone with truckloads of cattle in 1997. Hyundai’s business in North Korea also includes the Kaesong industrial complex, where about two dozen garment and other labor-intensive South Korean firms operate with the labor of more than 15,000 North Korean workers. The project started as a result of the first-ever inter-Korean summit in 2000.

Establishing tourism to Mt Paektu was a lifelong dream of Chung Ju-yung, who died in 2001. Chung handed over the group’s North Korean business arm to his fifth son, Mong-hun, who committed suicide in 2003 amid suspicions that the group was involved in the government’s secret transmittance of huge sums of money to Pyongyang in return for the 2000 summit. His wife, Hyun, immediately took charge of the business.

“My trip to the North was very productive,” Hyun said. “Details of the Mt Paektu business will be discussed at the working level.”

Speaking about her meeting with the North Korean leader, she said “I met him for the first time in two years. He asked about my daughter and we talked a lot about personal things.” Hyun said she is happy to realize her father-in-law’s dream.

In addition, the North’s Asia-Pacific Peace Committee decided to grant Hyundai Group the right to conduct tours of the Kaesong area. “Both sides agreed to start the tour of historic sites and scenic places in the Kaesong area from early December 2007,” the KCNA reported.

Meanwhile, the South Korean government, together with the Hyundai Group, plans to survey Mt Paektu this month to prepare for the start of tours next year, industry sources said. “The preliminary survey by government officials and Hyundai will thoroughly check Mt. Paektu,” said an official from Hyundai.

According to the Koryo Tours website, the DPRK will once again be performing Arirang in 2008.  This time around, American tours have been extended by a full day.  Where as previous tours ran from Saturday to Tuesday, now they will run from Tuesday to Saturday (matching the days that Air Koryo flies to Beijing).

I saw the Mass Games in 2005 with Kim Jong Il himself (official coverage, Simon’s coverage).  It was quite an experience.  You will never see anything like it.

Traditionally the Mass Games have only been held on big holidays (typically on notable anniversaries: 10,15, 20, etc.)  This is now the fourth year in a row that Arirang will be performed (2005, 2006, 2007, 2008), a show that was first performed in 2003 (I think).

To the Americans out there: it is not illegal and will not put you on any kind of watch list.

Warning: flooding in October has interrupted trips the last two years!