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DPRK re-freezes Kumgang facilities

Monday, November 15th, 2010

According to the Donga Ilbo:

North Korea has re-frozen and re-seized South Korean facilities at the Mount Kumgang resort that were reopened in the latest reunions of inter-Korean separated families.

An official at the South Korean Unification Ministry said Sunday that the North attached “frozen” labels on dining and container-type lodging facilities and a vehicle maintenance plant at the resort owned by Hyundai Asan Corp. of South Korea.

Pyongyang will also likely attach “seized” labels on a family reunion center owned by the South Korean government where the reunions took place.

You can read about the family reunions here.

Read the full story here:
NK Re-freezes S. Korean Facilities at Mount Kumgang
Donga Ilbo
11/15/2010

Posted in Mt. Kumgang Tourist Special Zone, South Korea, Special Economic Zones (Established before 2013), Tourism | Comments Closed

Koryo Tours November 2010 newsletter

Friday, November 12th, 2010

Koryo Tours continues to expand tourism opportunities in the DPRK and confirms the mass games will take place in 2011. According to their newsletter:

1. Mass Games (August 1 – Spetember 9, 2011): The performance will take place in the giant May Day Stadium in Pyongyang, DPRK (North Korea). We do not yet know if the show will continue on into October as it usually does so we advise anyone who is keen to see and experience this unique and spectacular show to aim at booking a tour within these dates in order to have a travel experience like no other. TOUR LIST.

2. Hamhung, Rason: We have some very special tours in 2011 we are able to offer to all tourists including those from the US. Hamhung – DPRK’s industrial 2nd city on the east coast Rason – North Korea’s free trade zone with a train exit to Vladivostok.

3. 16 Day Tour: Our new ultimate tour taking in pretty much everywhere it is possible for tourists to visit in North Korea.

4. Cycling Tour: Experince the DPRK by bike.

5. Madagan, Russia: In June we will offer a trip to the Russian province of Magadan, a place so remote that the locals call the rest of Russia ‘the mainland’.

Here is a full list of 2011 tours.

Posted in Koryo Tours, Tourism | Comments Closed

DPRK eases China travel

Wednesday, November 10th, 2010

According to the Daily NK:

A source has reported that the North Korean authorities are allowing ordinary people to visit China again, while claiming it as an example of “Kim Jong Eun’s consideration” for the people.

A lengthy ban on cross border visits was imposed in late August to cover the anniversary of the regime founding on September 9th, Party Delegates’ Conference on September 28th and anniversary of the Workers’ Party founding on October 10th. This has now been lifted.

The source said, “Visiting relatives in China has been allowed since the 5th.“ According to his explanation, the propaganda department of provincial committees of the Party held a lecture on the 5th targeting those requesting permits to visit China so as to educate them on things to keep in mind. During which, a cadre in one lecture reportedly claimed, “Thanks to the consideration of Comrade Youth Captain, private tours to China are to be allowed, and in future will progress in the form of state business.”

The National Security Agency is responsible for preparatory lectures for would-be North Korean tourists; the NSA makes them sign an oath not to reveal any national secrets, not to have any connection with South Koreans or Chinese religious organizations in China, and to submit items that they cannot bring back into North Korea.

However, the source sought to emphasize, “The propaganda department of the Party has carried this out this time in an attempt to let the North Korean tourists know that it is part of “Kim Jong Eun’s consideration.”

Additionally, the source said that the lecturing cadres were keen to encourage tourists to “receive actively and willingly help from Chinese relatives” and told them “there is no limit, so bring as many products and as much money as you want.” However, there was one limitation, “You should not meet South Chosun people or bring South Chosun products.”

The source added also, “The department demanded that would-be tourists offer donations,” saying, “Since the Comrade Youth Captain has done you a special favor, it is reasonable for you to prepare the necessary goods for local kindergartens, schools or other social facilities.”

Interestingly, the process of issuing passports, visas and permits has apparently been significantly quickened.

Normally, when a North Korean who has relatives in China submits an application form to a municipal or provincial office of the National Security Agency, the application goes to Pyongyang NSA via the foreign affairs section in each city or province. The NSA confirms that the applicant has relatives in China through the Chinese authorities, and then the authorities issue permits and visas.

Going through the whole process generally takes between three and six months. Of course, bribes are needed to keep an application moving along, and the process can be expedited depending on the value of the bribe.

However, this time the process, from submitting the application form to receiving the permit, is only 15 to 20 days.

Looking at the situation, the source added wryly, “Since the authorities are encouraging people to take trips to China and therefore tourist numbers will increase, cadres in foreign affairs sections of the local NSA will be in a favorable situation.”

Read the full article here:
North Korean Tourists Back in China
Daily NK
Im Jeong Jin
11/10/2010

Posted in China, Civil society, International trade, Tourism, Transportation | Comments Closed

3.6% of South-North cooperation fund spent in 2010

Monday, October 25th, 2010

Institute for Far Eastern Studies (IFES)
NK Brief No. 10-10-25-1
10/25/2010

There has been a sharp drop in inter-Korean exchanges resulting from the chill in relations on the peninsula. This has led to a mere 3.6 percent of the inter-Korean cooperation fund being tapped as of the end of September. In 2009, 8.6 percent of the allocated funds were spent, but this year, even at the end of the third quarter, not even half that much has been allocated.

The National Assembly’s Unification, Foreign Affairs and Trade Committee found in an audit of the Ministry of Unification’s public documents that almost 1.2 trillion Won had been allocated for inter-Korean cooperative projects, but a mere 41.7 billion Won had been spent. 1.4 billion Won was spent on socio-cultural exchanges, while 13.1 billion Won was spent on humanitarian aid, 10.7 billion Won supported economic cooperative projects, and 16.7 billion Won was advanced in support of those companies and groups planning additional projects. On the other hand, the Ministry of Unification is loaning 60 billion Won from the inter-Korean cooperation fund to South Korean companies invested in economic cooperative projects that are suffering losses due to the May 24 measures, which restrict exchanges due to the sinking of the Cheonan.

In 2008, the first year of Lee Myung-bak’s administration, only 18.1 percent of the inter-Korean cooperation fund was spent, and this percentage has fallen every year since. Now at an all-time low, it appears that the rate of spending will continue to fall in the future. With the May 24 measures, the Kaesong Industrial Complex was exempted from trade restrictions. In addition, other inter-Korean trade worth approximately 80 million USD (90 billion Won) has been permitted. This includes 639 different cases of imported goods manufactured from raw materials or parts sent to the North prior to the May 24 restrictions, amounting to 31.15 million USD, and 269 cases of pre-ordered exports amounting to just over 49 million USD.

On the other hand, losses due to the halt of tourism to Mount Keumgang and Kaesong have amounted to 628.5 billion Won over the last two years. According to a report submitted to the National Assembly by the Korea Tourism Association on the impact of halting these tourism projects, losses of 548.2 billion Won had been incurred by August, and that is expected to grow to 628.5 billion Won by the end of the year.

Mount Keumgang tours were halted in July 2008, while Kaesong tours were stopped in November of the same year. Since then, the Korea Tourism Association has lost 10.5 billion Won in profits, while private-sector companies including Hyundai-Asan and its partners have lost 465.2 billion Won. In addition, restaurants, rest stops, visitor centers and other businesses in the border town of Koseong, Kangwon Province have lost 72.5 billion won due to the lack of tourists travelling across the border to Mount Keumgang, pushing total losses by the government and private sector to over 500 billion Won.

Posted in Institute for Far Eastern Studies, Kaesong Industrial Complex (KIC), Mt. Kumgang Tourist Special Zone, South Korea, Special Economic Zones (Established before 2013), Tourism | Comments Closed

North Korea’s cultural life

Friday, October 15th, 2010

Tania Branigan visited Pyongyang for The Guardian and wrote a long article on North Korean culture. Most of the information is familiar to long-time DPRK watchers, though there were a few nuggets of information I had not heard before. I have posted these below:

But who knew that The Da Vinci Code was a hit in this strictly controlled city? That Céline Dion is a karaoke favourite? Or that the mass performances are not only a tribute to the leadership and motherland, but the way that many young people find partners?

…

Few foreigners see this city at all. Around 2,000 western tourists visited last year, plus perhaps 10 times as many Chinese visitors. The expatriate population, excluding Chinese and Russian diplomats, and including children, stands at 150.

…

There are certainly signs of change here: Air Koryo has new planes and three gleaming airport buses to ferry passengers from runway to terminal. Last week a vast new theatre opened, as did an apartment complex, although it may be destined for officials. The 105-storey Ryugyong hotel – more than two decades in construction – is finally glass-sheathed and due to open in 2012. That year will mark the 100th birthday of the country’s founder, Kim Il-sung. But it is hard to see how it can achieve its pledge to become “a great, powerful and prosperous nation” by then – even given the Stakhanovite industrial efforts lauded in its newspapers.

…

Pyongyang is lucky: no one is plump, but nor is there noticeable emaciation. Dr Andrei Lankov, associate professor at Kookmin University in Seoul, says the official income in Pyongyang is around 3,000 won a month, but many have ways of making money on the side and – unlike other North Koreans – its residents receive subsistence food rations. Most top those up at markets that are legal though never formally acknowledged (officials insist that “everything is public”). At the turn of the year, the government embarked on currency reforms to eradicate an increasingly independent group of “kiosk capitalists”. But wiping out hard-won savings caused highly unusual public discontent and even, reportedly, unrest.

You can read the full article here:
The cultural life of North Korea
The Guardian
Tania Branigan
10/15/2010

Posted in 2012 Strong and Prosperous Nation (Kangsong Taeguk), Black markets, Civil society, Dating/Courting, General markets (FMR: Farmers Market), Hoteling, Labor conditions/wages, Music, Tourism | Comments Closed

Rason: beyond Pyongyang lies a different world

Sunday, September 26th, 2010

Michael Rank writes in the Guardian:

If Pyongyang is North Korea’s showpiece city – albeit an empty and forbidding place – then the country’s interior is something else altogether.

In this desolate city [Rason] 800 kilometres from the capital, the main square turns to a sea of mud in the rain, and there are no street lights so it’s impossible to avoid the puddles at night.

Rason is 50km from the border with China, over a twisting dirt track through the mountains, but it could be another planet.

The cities on the Chinese side are frenetic with activity, skyscrapers sprouting like mushrooms in the rain and traffic jams unavoidable. Rason couldn’t be more different, stuck in a Stalinist time warp. Traffic chiefly consists of ox carts and Chinese lorries. Roads are repaired by teams of workers armed with shovels and picks.

Tourists are a rarity, just 20 so far this year and none at all in 2009, according to Simon Cockerell of Beijing-based Koryo Tours, which specialises in travel to North Korea.

Officially this is a “free economic and trade zone”. In practice that special designation doesn’t appear to make much difference.

The overwhelming majority of those who do venture in are Chinese, many of them lured by the area’s only apparent growth industry – a glittering casino and hotel built by a Hong-Kong multimillionaire.

The Emperor casino was supposed to have shut its doors in 2005 after a senior Chinese transport official gambled away more than 3.5 million yuan (£340,000), much of it public money.

But a few dozen Chinese were observed gambling in the smoky windowless rooms on the top floor of the venue on a recent evening.

Near the casino there is a small island that is linked to the mainland by a short causeway where tourists can relax over a seafood lunch consisting of raw sea urchins, chargrilled octopus and squid washed down with Chinese beer.

Not that Rason is awash with produce. In the 1990s, an acute famine killed many thousands. Although the worst is over, millions continue to go hungry and in Rason a British- charity, Love North Korean Children, makes enormous efforts to ensure that children in the area get enough to eat.

The charity feeds 2,500 children a day, and the youngsters in the Hahyeon nursery school looked well nourished when this reporter visited. But George Rhee, the charity’s founder and powerhouse, stressed that without the steamed buns his bakery provides “all these children would go hungry”.

Rason’s remoteness means it is easier to evade the central government’s relentless grip and benefit from trade, legal and illicit, with nearby China.

North Korea officially maintains the fiction that all economic activity is state-run. It therefore bans foreigners from visiting private markets which help to relieve dire shortages of even staple foods.

Yet during our visit, the Guardian was encouraged to shop in the market for crab for supper, which was cooked in a local restaurant. Apart from seafood, the market also sells cigarettes and alcohol imported from China.

For travellers who like to learn about their surroundings from the locals, North Korea is probably not the best destination.

The Guardian was closely manmarked by minders and ignored by locals. Local officials have been hoping to attract more tourists to Rason by building a golf course and racetrack, but it is hard to imagine these ever materialising in such an isolated and impoverished location.

Read the full story here:
North Korea: beyond the capital lies a different world
The Guardian
Michael Rank
9/26/2010

Posted in Foreign aid statistics, Foreign direct investment, Gambling, Koryo Tours, Love North Korean Children, Rason Economic and Trade Zone (Rajin-Sonbong), Special Economic Zones (Established before 2013), Tourism | 1 Comment »

US State Department issues warning about illegal entry into DPRK

Monday, August 30th, 2010

According to CBS News (8/29/2010):

As soon as Carter cleared the airspace of the repressive communist dictatorship with freed American prisoner Aijalon Mahli Gomes, who was granted amnesty after being sentenced to eight years hard labor for entering the country illegally, the State Department issued a travel warning telling Americans to stay away, CBS News’ State Department Reporter Charles Wolfson reports.

The travel warning tells U.S. citizens not to enter the country without “explicit official permission and an entry visa from the Government of North Korea.”

“The North Korean government will prosecute and sentence those who enter the DPRK without proper documentation,” the State Department notes, in an apparent attempt to reach the few Americans for whom Gomes’ story was somehow not enough warning. “North Korea’s penalties for knowingly or unknowingly violating North Korean laws are much harsher than are those in the United States for similar offenses.”

“Travel by U.S. citizens to North Korea is not routine, and U.S. citizens crossing into North Korea without proper documentation, even accidently, have been subject to arrest and long-term detention,” the warning adds. “Since January 2009, four U.S. citizens have been arrested for entering North Korea without the necessary documents. Three were charged with illegal entry and ‘crimes against the State.'”

It goes on to note that the United States does not maintain diplomatic relations with North Korea, limiting what it can do for citizens detained or injured there. It says even if you have a valid passport and visa to enter the country “you may be expelled, arrested, or imprisoned” for doing so.

The warning would seem to serve two purposes. One, simply to remind Americans of what they should already know: That North Korean is not going to welcome them with open arms if they elect to enter the country illegally, as Gomes and fellow Christian Robert Park did. And two, to make it clear that Carter’s trip to made nice with the leaders of the repressive regime in order to recover an American citizen doesn’t signal any sort of thaw in diplomatic relations.

As far as enterning the country legally you will be just fine–in fact probably safer than traveling almost anywhere else.

Posted in Tourism, USA | 1 Comment »

Koryo Tours offers short trips to DPRK

Thursday, August 12th, 2010

According to an update email from Koryo Tours:

Over the 2010 Oct 1st holiday period Koryo Tours has two group departures to Pyongyang and beyond, one short 2 night trip around the highlights of the North Korean capital city, the other a week long trip around the country, seeing not only the capital but places beyond as well, the itineraries, prices, and other details of these tours can be found at the following links;

Mass Games Mini-Break 2: Sept 30 – Oct 2
http://www.koryogroup.com/travel_NEWItinerary_8.php

China National Day Tour: Sept 30 – Oct 6/7
http://www.koryogroup.com/travel_Itinerary_20a.php

The tour is suitable for all ages and almost all nationalities (US citizens are welcome as well), discounts for children, groups, and those who have travelled with us before. We guarantee an unforgettable experience that can only be brought to you by Koryo
Tours, the only North Korean travel specialist in the world! See for
yourself this Chinese National Day holiday!

Contact us on [email protected] if you have any questions at all and if you’d like to sign up the simple process (we don’t need your passport at all) is explained in full detail at http://www.koryogroup.com/travel_bookingATour.php.

Posted in Koryo Tours, Tourism | Comments Closed

Koryo Tours August 2010 Newsletter

Sunday, August 8th, 2010

Learn more about Koryo Tours at their web page.

New Trips departing from Pyongayng
Be one fo the firts visitors to the DPRK’s second city – newly opened to Koryo Tours’ tourists- Hamhung, the second largest city in North Korea and a major industrial hub on the East Coast of the Korean peninsula, Previously the only foreigners who had been to this remote and very different part of the country were East Germans who participated in the post-war reconstruction of the area’s industry, NGO staff working on projects in the city, and the occasional diplomat or sailor. In May, however, Koryo Tours’ Simon Cockerell became the first tourist ever to go there since Liberation from Japan in 1945. Koryo Tours is pleased to be able to offer this destination to group and independent tourists staying in the city centre or at the nearby Majon beach. Among the places to visit are the giant Hamhung Grand Theatre (the city’s largest building that dominates the skyline), the Hungnam fertiliser factory (where Kim Il Sung made the remark “fertiliser is rice, and rice is communism”), the home of Ri Song Gye (a notable king of ancient Korea), and much more besides. Find more about our independent tours here

Pyongyang to Hamhung is a few hours by road via the port city of Wonsan, so this is not a daytrip destination; but, for pervious visitors or people staying for more than a few days in the DPRK, this is a very good place to head to – amazing views of the countryside all the way there and back contribute to a feeling that you have visited somewhere very special. An unforgettable addition to any tour.

VISIT OUTER MOUNT KUMGANG – In addition to our opening of Hamhung as a destination for tourists, there are more places on DPRK’s East Coast that are now possible to visit; including – for the first time from North Korea – the Hyundai-run resort of Outer Kumgang. This has been closed to tourists who previously went there in their thousands from the South since an incident in 2008, where a tourist was shot by a soldier in mysterious circumstances. Since then the agreement between the government of North Korea and Hyundai – who had leased the area for tourists – has collapsed and it isnow possible to visit (although not stay overnight) from the North. Some stunning hiking trails, within what is justly considered Korea’s most beautiful mountain range, can be embarked upon. Also a visit to the serene and peaceful Samil Lagoon is a must. A visit here takes the best part of a day for any tour already at the East Coast and is a must for anyone interested in seeing some of the most remarkable natural landscapes in East Asia. Good for getting a bit of exercise after the long drive to the East Coast as well!

New Trips to the DPRK’s North East
RASON INDEPENDENT TOURS AVAILABLE – On the subject of the Rason area of North Korea, we are now offering independent tours to this area and have a new page of our website dedicated to this soon. Koryo Tours is the only western travel company ever to have been to Rason, so do feel free to ask us any questions at all; very few people have even heard of this place, let alone thought about going so if you want reliable advice and information, you know who to call! Full details and information about all the options we offer are available at the above link. Please have a look and let us know if you fancy it. The tour is unforgettable and very unlike the usual areas of the DPRK that we visit. Also it’s an amazing boast to have been there if you’re looking for a great travel story; the least visited part of the least visited country in the world! [email protected] for more info!

DPRK’s North East and Russia
THE TUMAN TRIANGLE- CHINA/DPRK/RUSSIA – In July we embarked on a brand new tour available exclusively through Koryo Tours. We call it the Tuman Triangle tour as it includes visits to three different countries in the region of the Tuman River (Tumen in China for all the pedants!). The route that our pioneering group of 18 took was a flight to Yanji in NE China’s Jilin province, then to the North Korean free trade zone of Rason (previously known as Rajin-Sonbong, a place where western tourists are almost unheard of but which Koryo tours have been visiting since 1996). We spent 4 days in the area doing a diverse range of activities such as seeing ports and seafood factories, playing beach football against Russian railway engineers, shopping in a public market – the only place this can be done in North Korea – going to the obligatory revolutionary sites, visiting the doctors (!) and local kindergartens, going to a deserted casino, doing a boat trip around the nearby islands, and more!

From DPRK we became the first tourists ever to cross into Russia by train to the town of Khasan and then spent a couple of days in the Russian countryside relaxing and taking a boat trip to a fascinating island in a nature reserve where abandoned WWII bases now provide nesting places for seagulls, before heading to Vladivostok by ferry and touring that previously-closed city and having free time to experience the delights and sights of the Russian Far East. We even made it to a Russian second division football match (Luch Energiya beat Belograd Salut 2-0 in case you’re interested!) before flying back to Beijing to complete this brand new and utterly unique itinerary.

The tour was a great success and we will be offering this again a couple of times next year. Dates and details will go online in a few weeks but do drop us a line on if you’d like to register an early interest; we aim to expand this tour even more for 2011.

A WILD AND MAGNIFICENT TRIP IN 2011 We will have an optional extension that will go to the remote Russian city of Magadan (infamous for Stalin’s gulags) – from Chollima to Kolyma! – as well as to the volcanic peninsula of Kamchatka. If you like the sound of this, then get in touch now! This tour, exclusively available from Koryo Tours will just get better and better. Join us if you want a completely different kind of holiday, and this sounds like your kind of thing!

4. Last chance to see Turkmenistan before the changes
TURKMENISTAN TOUR NOVEMBER 2010 – With the recent news that the Arch of Neutrality in Central Ashgabat is being torn down and replaced with something yet to be confirmed, the plan to relocate Central Asia’s largest market (the anarchic Tolkuchka Bazaar) to a sterile new location, and President Berdymuhammedov’s statement that he wants the amazing Darvaza gas crater to be extinguished and filled-in, it definitely seems like this is the time to visit, and see Turkmenistan at its weirdest and most unique. It will probably take at least a few months for the gas crater to be removed, (it’s the single most remarkable thing you will ever see; look for videos on YouTube for proof and bear in mind, they do not do it justice!) so and camp next to the strangest accidentally-formed attraction in the world! Full tour details for this trip can be found at http://www.koryogroup.com/turkmenistan/tours.html and the tour can be started from a variety of destinations.

We have a lot more plans for additions to this November tour so if you’ve been thinking about going to Central Asia’s most enigmatic country, then now may be the time. Drop us a line for more information and we hope you can be there to see it with your own eyes!

Posted in Koryo Tours, Tourism | 1 Comment »

DPRK reopens “seized” RoK assets in Kumgang

Saturday, August 7th, 2010

According to Yonhap:

North Korea has reopened a South Korean-built hotel and restaurant in Mount Kumgang on its eastern coast and has started to receive visitors, a pro-Pyongyang daily published in Japan said Saturday.

The Choson Sinbo said Hotel Kumgangsan and the Mokrangwan restaurant opened for business July 20 and will offer services to both foreign and local guests.

However, the Choson Sinbo reported that none of the visitors has spent the night at the 215-room hotel.

“All the tourists so far have stayed overnight at Wonsan and only visited the mountains during the day,” it said. Wonson is located further north in South Hamgyong Province.

The hotel was built and operated by South Korea’s Hyundai Asan Corporation and had been used by tourists from the South until 2008, when a North Korean guard shot and killed a female tourist at a nearby beach.

Since the fatal shooting, Seoul has banned tourists from the mountain report, with Pyongyang taking steps in early October to freeze all Hyundai assets and start its own independent operations. Hyundai employees at the site were also expelled from the resort.

The tours to Mount Kumgang — hailed as a symbol of reconciliation between the countries — began in late 1998, and nearly 2 million South Koreans visited the zone before they were suspended.

South Korean’s Unification Ministry said local companies invested an estimated 420 billion won (US$374 million) to develop the border resort that includes a golf course, several restaurants and a 157-room floating hotel called the Haekumgang.

A group of Chinese diplomats recently visited Kumgang.

Read the full story here:
N. Korea reopens hotel, restaurant on scenic Mount Kumgang: newspaper
Yonhap
8/7/2010

Posted in Mt. Kumgang Tourist Special Zone, Special Economic Zones (Established before 2013), Tourism | Comments Closed

North Korean Economy Watch