Archive for the ‘Koryo Tours’ Category

Confusion over UK-North Korea travel ban cleared up

Tuesday, June 16th, 2009

UPDATE 4: from a reliable source

The situation was caused by a mistranslation. Following the nuclear test and rocket launch earlier in 2009, the FCO suspended funding (and therefore visas) for FCO FUNDED DPRK PROJECTS IN THE UK for three months. This, unfortunately, was mistranslated into “suspending visas for DPRK citizens”, thus the cerfuffle.

UPDATE 3: By Michael Rank

Confusion over a reported ban on Britons visiting North Korea and North Koreans coming to Britain seems to have been cleared up.

Koryo Tours said last week that they had been informed by their partner, Korea International Travel Company, that “In connection with the recent measures taken by UK government not to allow DPRK citizens to enter the UK we also will not receive any UK citizens as tourists to the DPRK for the time being.”

After some confusion, a spokesman for the North Korean embassy in London said on Monday that they had been reassured that there was no ban on DPRK citizens visiting Britain and that North Korea was therefore issuing visas to Britons as normal, although as usual it “depends on the case”.  He had “no idea” how the confusion had arisen.

A Foreign and Commonwealth Office spokeswoman confirmed that “we have not introduced any new measures (regarding visas for North Koreans), nor have we refused any visas recently.”

The Home Office recently posted figures showing that in recent years Britain has somewhat surprisingly issued 13-18 North Koreans a year with tourist visas, including a few under-18s. Most of the few North Koreans visiting Britain presumably come as part of official delegations, including a Workers’ Party of Korea group who came last January.

Foreign Secretary David Miliband said on Monday: “No individual [North Korean] officials are currently subject to travel bans or asset freezes. The new UN Security Council Resolution 1874, passed on 12 June 2009 tasks the UN Sanctions Committee to designate further organisations and individuals for travel bans and asset freezes.”

UPDATE 2: Koryo Tours has notified me that the visa restriction has now been lifted.  According to their email:

We have just been informed by our Korean partners that the ban on UK citizens travelling to the DPRK has been lifted and they are now once more accepting visa applications from Brits.

All tours will be running as expected with no restrictions on any nationalities, and all US tours in the summer are expected to also go ahead.

UPDATE 1:  Michael Rank has managed to uncover the number of tourist visas issued by the UK government to North Korean citizens from 2005-2008 (source):

2005 
Over 18: 17
Under 18: 1

2006
Over 18: 13
Under 18: 3
 
2007 
Over 18: 12
Under 18: 1

2008 
Over 18: 15
Under 18: 2

See the origins of the travel ban below:

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Koryo Tours Newsletter (June 2009)

Thursday, June 4th, 2009

Koryo Tours has been in the North Korea tour business for many years.  They have helped expand tourism in the DPRK and made three great documentaries in the country: The Game of Their Lives, A State of Mind, and Crossing the Line

They offer some interesting new information in their June newsletter:

1. Despite the recent nuclear test and missile launches it is still business as usual–and this is for tourist companies as well as for the various European Embassies in Pyongyang. Koryo has tourists going in almost every week and fully expect the Arirang Mass Games (info) to be going ahead from 10th August to the end of September and maybe into October, as previously confirmed. American tourists are welcomed during this time and tours are showing a high level of interest.

2. New tourism attractions:Koryo Tours has just made trips up and down the Taedong river in central Pyongyang available to tourists for the first time.  Several sizes and speeds of vessels are available for short jaunts in the city centre as well as longer cruises to the suburban scenic spot of Mangyongdae. They plan to add these trips to many of their tours.

3. Charity Projects: In addition to Koryo Tour’s long running relationships with the Rotarian Society and Love North Korean Children they have just launched an appeal to raise money for a couple of charitable projects in the DPRK, one to purchase the first ever shipment of Braille dictionaries for blind children, and one to buy playground equipment for orphanages. More details on these projects can be found on their website if you can help then please let them know.

4. Mt. Myohyang named UNESCO site: UNESCO recently awarded the Mt Myohyang area in the DPRK the status of Biosphere Reserve. The area is a sacred site as, according to legend, it was the home of King Tangun, forefather of the Korean people. The scenic mountainous area rises nearly 2,000 metres above sea level. Its spectacular rocks and cliffs provide a habitat for 30 endemic plant species; 16 plant species that are globally threatened and 12 animal species that are also endangered. A wide variety of medicinal herbs also grows in the site.  For tourists, it is well known for the International Friendship Exhibition which is a series of subterranean halls housing the gifts which were given to the 2 leaders by people from all over the world.

If you would like to receive the Koryo Tours newsletter, visit their home page and click on the newsletter link in the upper right corner of the page.

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Art in the DPRK

Wednesday, April 22nd, 2009

The Art Newspaper  published an interesting piece on how artists are trained and art is produced in the DPRK.

On artistic training:

All DPRK artists are members of state-run studio complexes where the art is actually created, and every artist has a formal ranking. These start at level C, move up through B and A, followed by “Merited Artists”, then “People’s Artist”. There are around 50 “Merited Artists” still working today and perhaps 20 “People’s Artists”, the best known being Son U Yong, Kim Chun Jon, Jong Chang Mo, Li Chang and Li Gyong Nam. Almost all artists working in oil and brush-and-ink are men but there are exceptions—for example Kim Song Hui, well known for her brush-and-ink work, is also a People’s Artist. There is also the Kim Il Sung Prize but artists normally have to be at least over 50 to receive this highest accolade, the most famous recipient being Jong Yong Man.

The top art institute is the Pyongyang University of Fine Art with various sections: brush-and-ink, oil, sculpture, ceramics, mural painting and industrial arts. Young artists are selected from around the country and if they are judged sufficiently skilled they will study here. Pyongyang University requires a minimum of five years study: at the moment there are 7-10 students studying oil painting and around 20 studying Korean brush-and-ink painting. In total there are around 150 students a year in the fine art department. Students enjoy class outings to local factories and much time is devoted to object and life drawing although not with nude models but, for example, girls in swimming costumes.

After finishing university the students are selected by various art studios—the Paekho or Central Art Studio, the Songhwa established in 1997 for retired artists, and the most active studio-compound, the Mansudae in Pyongyang.

On artistic style:

The art itself looks like classic Social Realist propaganda, that Beaux Arts technical tradition received through Russia, maintained by the Soviet Union and now, with the transformation of China, only being practised in North Korea, unchanged for more than 50 years. Abstract painting does not exist as it is deemed bourgeois and anti-revolutionary, and if some representational art can be purely aesthetic without political overtones, many landscapes do portray places of the revolution or of political significance.

Obedience to the ideology and excellence in its clear communication to others are what matter rather than any individual glory. This ensures an anonymity to much DPRK production that only its cognoscenti can penetrate. Experts can not only assign an artist’s name to a work, they can also determine whether it is an “original” or one of endless “copies” of an image.

Ever since the founding of the state in 1948, certain themes have maintained their place in the officially approved iconography of the “Fatherland” and it is hard to establish which artist first produced a specific image and when. These same images can be reproduced countless times over the decades. Thus much detective work is required to trace the origin of an image, the only real source being the annual “Yearbook” cataloguing official production.

As [Nick] Bonner explains: “The skill level is very high in academic drawing and painting, but the production is massive and it’s hard to find ‘pure’ pieces, you have to know the provenance or where things were first found.” Indeed, even the museums display copies, ostensibly to “preserve” the quality of the originals kept in storage.

More information on the Mansudae Art Company:

Here visitors, especially foreign tourists, are welcome to see the artists working in their small studios, watch the instructional video on the operation of the company, and buy some work from the large gift shop. Prices at the very top end for a “People’s Artist” can reach as high as €15,000, the favoured currency for all foreign transactions.

Woodblocks are a North Korean speciality, though nowadays they have been almost entirely replaced by lino prints with an attractive rich ink finish. The first ever exhibition of such prints in the United States, loaned from Bonner’s collection, opened last year at New York’s Korea Society, which is currently touring through the country. Initial editions are often very small, less than ten, but if the image proves popular the lino is either re-cut by the same artist or by a “copy” artist and signed by him.

At Mansudae there are also small-scale ceramic sculptures available, naturally of a propagandist nature, as well as more classical ceramics. There is even a startlingly realistic sculpture, reminiscent of Duane Hanson, of North Korea’s most famous ceramicist Uchi Soun (1919-2003) and examples of his widely-exhibited work for as much as €10,000 a pot. There are also striking large-scale figurative watercolours on paper and the highest-quality work, local ink paintings called “Chosonhwa”, some of which will be “thematic art” on revolutionary themes, as each artist will produce at least one a year for the state to show his support for the country. Mansudae employs some 150 of these ink-artists, compared with perhaps 60 oil painters. With some 1,000 members Mansudae produces at least 4,000 top level original works a year, though it also has a factory-style section producing copies for western hotels. Employees, who work a five day eight-hour week, are paid, dependent on level, at a similar rate to the national average, €35 a month for a worker and €70 for a technician.

More information on art in the DPRK: 

1. The Paekho Art Studio has partnered with Felix Abt to sell their art internationally.  Their web page is here.   The Mansudae Art Studio also launched a web page (click here).

2. Nick Bonner has a huge collection of North Korean art.  I have seen quite a bit of it, and it is impressive.  He also sells North Korean art through the Pyongyang Art Studio.

3. There are a couple of books on North Korean Art.  They are very different: North Korean Posters: The David Heather Collection and Art Under Control in North Korea.

4. (h/t Werner) The Mansudae Overseas Development Group, which has been building monuments and buildings across the developing world (mostly in Africa) is part of the Mansudae Art Studio.  

Read more below:
Inside the Democratic People’s Republic of North Korea
The Art newspaper
Adrian Dannatt
3/18/2009

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North Korea’s revolutionary operas

Wednesday, April 22nd, 2009

I was looking at the Koryo Tours web page and found the following information on North Korea’s revolutionary operas:

In the DPRK there are five revolutionary operas, all created in the early 1970s, which have been termed in North Korea as ‘immortal classics’.  In order of production date these are; Sea of Blood, The Flower Girl, A True Daughter of the Party, Tell O’ the Forest! and The Song of Mt. Kumgang. These operas are still performed to this day and on the occasions that performances take place it is even possible for tourists to attend the shows, the performing language is of course Korean but when foreigners are in attendance English language supertitles are beamed onto a wall beside the stage so that the narrative can be followed by visitors. All operas are full-scale, large cast efforts with amazingly high production values and these 5 shows have sustained their popularity over the decades. All of them of course contain strong political messages that reflect the issues concerning the country at the time of their writing up until the present day and people of all ages attend the shows frequently. For complete information on what comprises and constitutes a Revolutionary Opera and what characteristics and values it must have then there is only one book to read; On the Art of Opera by Kim Jong Il.

I have posted descriptions of the five operas below (each also from the Koryo Tours web page):

(more…)

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Friday Fun: Tourism, humor, and keeping up with the Joneses

Thursday, April 9th, 2009

Tourism:
koryotourslogo.jpgKoryo Tours has notified the world that the DPRK will be putting on the Arirang Mass Games again this summer.  American tourists will be allowed to attend–click here to book your tourMost other passport holders can opt for a longer visit–click here to check out the dates and locations.   I saw the mass games in 2005, and it is something I will never forget.


Humor:

Someone posted a North Korean comedy routine on Youtube.  If you have ever wondered if North Korean women wear Kim Jong il jumpers, consider the question resolved…though I am still not sure how funny it is.

dprkstandup.JPG

PART 1, PART 2

My local Korean language expert cannot understand the dialect over the audience noise and the music, so if any viewers out there know what it is about, please post in the comments below.  Here is an older post of North Korean (and other communist) jokes.

Keeping up with the Joneses:
The Guardian published a humorous comparison between the North and South Korean ambassadors in London.  Check out the PDF here.

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Koryo Tours December newsletter

Wednesday, December 17th, 2008

The Koryo Tours December newsletter went out this week.  You can read it here. Interesting highlights below:

1. Apparently the areas open for tourism in the DPRK are expanding.

“We opened a few new areas to tourism over the course of the year including the East Coast city of Chongjin and the nearby Chilbo mountain area, Haeju in the south west of the country and various sites around Pyongyang. We stayed in a few different hotels, many of which we are now able to offer to our clients and in 2009 we intend to go to even more places than ever before, some wholly new areas and some new and expanded attractions in more familiar places – we can’t give out all details (some innovate, others imitate – have to keep some of it off the website for now to protect our interest!) but trust us – you’ll never have another holiday quite like this one if you choose to go with us next year. We have vastly expanded our range of tours to be ever-more inclusive to all demands.”

“2008 was also the year in which we continued our innovation in new kinds of tours; we ran a football tour where a foreign side played against a Korean team in a friendly, and the first ever Ice Hockey, Volleyball, and even Cricket (yes, cricket!) tours took place, all of them between visiting westerners and local Koreans. We continued our school trips and cultural exchange programs and assisted in several interesting and worthwhile projects, some of which are outlined further below. We also ran Pyongyang’s first ever pub quiz. It was a very interesting year for us all and we hope to repeat this innovation in 2009 so if you have any ideas for trips to DPRK then we would be more than happy to hear them, there are a great many restrictions on what can be done there but we have many years of experience and a track record of getting things done which is second to none, if it can be done, then we will organise it for you.”

2. Koryo Tours took in about 950 tourists this year.
3. Mass Games are presumed to be on in 2009.
4. Tour dates here.

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Pyonghwa Motors Update

Sunday, November 2nd, 2008

The Asia Sentinel offers an update on Pyonghwa Motors’ production and sales numbers:

Does it make economic sense to build or invest in a car factory for a country with 23 million people but fewer than 30,000 vehicles, a city where cars are so scarce that in the warmer months, traffic ladies swinging their stop signs act in place of electric lights, where hardly anybody knows how to drive? And why is Sun Mymung Moon, owner of an international business empire and a virulent anti-communist, investing in North Korea?

Pyeonghwa Motors invested around US$55 million to build the factory on a one-time rice paddy near the port city of Nampo, about 50 kilometers southwest of Pyongyang. In 2003, the JoongAng Daily quoted an executive from the Seoul-based Pyeonghwa, saying he expected the factory, with capacity to build 20,000 cars a year, to eventually turn a profit. However, a spokesman based in Seoul says Pyeonghwa has produced only 2,000 cars and pickup trucks in their first five years of operation.

How many cars have they actually sold? For North Korea, any statistics, much less accurate ones, are “very difficult to come by,” said Erik van Ingen Schenau, an Asian car analyst and author of the book “Automobiles Made in North Korea.” He quotes a French newspaper article that claims the factory sold around 400 vehicles, including SUVs, pickups, and sedans, in 2006.  He estimates the factory sold anyone from 400 to 1000 cars in 2007 and 2008, including the cars they exported to Mekong Auto, a Vietnam-based Moon company, and including the vehicles that they produced with the Shenyang-based China Brilliance. 

The Pyeonghwa factory produces cars with names such as Whistle, Cuckoo, and Three Thousand Li, which refers to the national territory of Korea, both North and South peppering the empty streets of Pyongyang, “You see these cars a lot, especially the Cuckoo,” said Simon Cockerell, general manager of Koryo Tours, one of the few western tour companies licensed to operate in North Korea. 

“It took drivers some getting used to because they were used to driving Japanese cars, with steering wheels on the right,” Cockerell said. 

Like most items produced in North Korea, the Pyeonghwa vehicles are not known for their quality. “They are probably nearly all hand-assembled, and based on a model from a factory in China that does not have a good reputation,” van Ingen Schenau said. “They make cars that no one is interested and in that they cannot export to Japan or South Korea. Maybe it is a prestige item to have a car factory in the country, but it does not seem to have worked out at the moment.”

The Whistle, based on the Fiat Siena, is one of the Pyeonghwa vehicles featured on billboards. It sits on a field next to a superimposed image of the Pyongyang Arch of Triumph. Built to commemorate Kim Il Sung and the Korean nation’s resistance to the Japanese occupation, the arch stands 60 meters tall, more than 10 meters taller than its model, the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. A boy stands next to the car one hand holding a trophy, while waving a hand, a smile on his face and a medal around his neck.  The billboard reads: “Whistle. A Strong and Beautiful Automobile.”

It is important to remember the target audience of the billboard. It is not only for the few thousand European tourists who visit the country for six days at a time, or the few hundred businessmen and embassy staff who live in one of the few foreigner hotels isolated from the city. The billboards also exist for the residents of Pyongyang, to show them that their country, despite the harm done to it by the entire capitalist world, is still able to go its own way and produce a strong and handsome car.

The full article can be found here:
North Korea in the Slow Lane
Asia Sentinel
Isaac Stone Fish  
10/31/2008

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Washington screening of “Crossing the Line”

Tuesday, October 28th, 2008

Nick Bonner, head of Koryo Tours and producer of three DPRK documentaries, will be in Washington Wednesday for a screening of his most recent film, Crossing the Line, at John’ s Hopkins University.  (NkeconWatch: I will be attending and I hope to see you there)

Event details:
Wednesday, October 29th at 6:00pm
Opening Reception at 5:30pm
Kenney Auditorium at Johns Hopkins University
1740 Massachusetts Ave., NW
Washington, D.C. 20036

Click here to register

You may order a copy of the film here

About the film
In 1962, a U.S. soldier guarding the DMZ deserted his unit, walked across the most heavily fortified border on earth and defected to North Korea. Crossing the Line, a documentary directed by Daniel Gordon and co-produced by Nicholas Bonner, goes inside North Korea to tell James Joseph Dresnok’s story for the first time. Allowed unprecedented access by North Korean authorities, the filmmakers reveal the full story of his defection, as well as the political intrigue and personal passions that have kept him behind the Cold War’s last frontier ever since.

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Mass Games to run through October 10

Thursday, September 18th, 2008

According to a recent update from Koryo Tours, this year’s mass games have been extended through October 10th, which is the 63rd Party Founding Day.

This might be the last time for Americans to visit Pyongyang until 2012.

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Next Mass Games in 2012?

Thursday, July 31st, 2008

I received a Koryo Tours email update this morning about the status of future Mass Games performances:

We have just been told by our partners in the DPRK that there is a chance there will be no mass games next year – possibly not even until 2012 which is the next big anniversary (Juche 100 – the 100th birthday of Kim Il Sung!!!). For Americans this year’s mass games may be the last opportunity to visit the country.

Nothing has been set in stone but we wanted to give you all pre-warning. This year there are 2 different performances – ARIRANG and PROSPER THE MOTHERLAND! – the latter has never been seen before so it really is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.

Historically the Mass Games are performed on special anniversary holidays (those in years divisible by 5 or 10).  Since 2005 (60th anniversary of victory over Japanese imperialism) they have been held annually.  This change could mark a return to the original schedule.

You can subscribe to the Koryo Tours email list here.

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