Daily NK
Moon Sung Hwee
11/9/2007
The conservative wing in South Korea purported that the opening of the direct Seoul-Baekdu air route would not lead to reforms and open-door policies of North Korea as proved in the case of Geumkang Mountain sightseeing. Hyundai Asan Co. and Korean Asia-Pacific Peace Committee of North Korea have just made a contract for the direct airline staring May next year.
Individuals who travel Mt. Geumkang by land will pass Yuongwoong Middle School, and Onjeong-ri and Yangji village on both sides of the road, all of which are walled off from tourists. Even in Geumkang Mountain, many places are enclosed with iron railings and armed soldiers are guarding them.
Many defectors originally from the Mt. Baekdu areas say that the locals have relatively ease access to the mountain, and so the sightseeing tour of Baekdu Mountain would bring considerable impact on the locals.
The sightseeing tour of Mt. Baekdu passes through Lake Cheonji and Yimyungsoo Waterfall, both of which are popular visiting places for many locals, and Samjiyeon ski resort is located in nearby villages.
Furthermore, every year hundreds of thousands pay a visit to many revolutionary sites in Mount Baekdu. When the tour begins in May next year, the locals and visitors would inevitably run into South Korean tourists. Many people wonder what the North Korean authorities would do about the contact before tourism begins.
According to the Hyundai Asan Co., tourists will fly a direct airline to Samjiyeon Airport and stay at either Sobacksu Visitor’s Hall or Begaebong Hotel. Then, they will visit Sobaeksu Forest, Yimyungsoo Waterfall, Mangchun Peak, Jangkoon Peak and Cheonji Lake.
Tourists must pass through the downtown of Samjiyeon in order to get to Mount Baekdu from Samjiyeon Airport. Unlike Onjong-ri located nearby Geumkang Mountain, it is difficult to close off many places in the Baekdu Mountain areas especially those densely populated villages around Yimyungsoo Waterfall and Samjiyeon ski resort.
In July, 2005, Hyundai Corporation had also once made a contract with North Korea for the development of the Baekdu Mountain areas for tourism. But it was not successful back then because North Korea had a conflict with the Hyundai over economic cooperation and so grew reluctant to cooperate with the corporation as the day for a pilot sightseeing to Mt. Baekdu approached. Moreover, It was difficult for the North Korean authorities to ignore the fact that hundreds of thousands of people make a field trip to many revolutionary sites in the Mt. Backdu areas every year.
The Mt. Baekdu areas have many national treasures such as Mt. Baekdu Billet publicized as Kim Jong Il’s birthplace, the so-called “slogan tree” (referring to those cherished trees which are inscribed with anti-Japanese slogans and the eulogy for Kim Il Sung, and supposedly carved by Kim Il Sung’s soldiers during his anti-Japanese struggle), and many other historical sites and monuments. In fact, Mr. Baekdu is considered sacred and lies at the center of “Su-Ryeong Absolutism” (the idolization of the late Kim Il Sung). The North Korean authorities use the national treasures in Mt. Baekdu to mystify Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il.
The itinerary of North Korean people who make a field trip to Mt. Baekdu for two nights and three days is planned as follows. First, they arrive to Samjiyeon Pond by train, and visit Kim Jong Il’s birthplace and Samjiyeon Monument. Next day, they go to Lake Cheonji. On the last day, they pay a visit to the first slogan tree at Gunchang Billet and Begaebong Billet, and Yimyongsoo Waterfall. The problem is that the itinerary of North Korean field trippers is the same as that of South Korean tourists.
Therefore, it is not clear yet whether the North Korean authorities would really open the tourist route in the Mt. Baekdu areas for South Koreas as scheduled in May next year.
It seems that the North Korean authorities allowed the development of Mt. Baekdu because they now have the knowledge and skill to manage tourism business from years of experience of operating Geumkang Mountain tourism business. In addition, the North Korean authorities might have figured out that tourism business normally does not directly lead to reforms and open-door policies.
It is impossible for the North Korean authorities to relocate all residents in the Mt. Baekdu areas. Therefore, they will likely relocate those who have “bad family background” among the residents. (North Korea is highly stratified by class based on family background.) Moreover, the authorities will likely build a block wall designed to keep the residents from encountering South Korean tourists, and construct a new road for tourists.
However, if the itinerary of North Koreans overlaps with that of South Korean tourists, two groups will inevitably have an encounter with each other. Even if North Korean field trippers go on foot and South Koreans travel by bus, two groups will confront each other at tourist attractions such as Samjiyeon Pond, Samjiyeon Monument, Begaebong Peek, Gunchang, and Lake Cheonji.
The North Korean authorities may have North Koreans make a field trip to Mt. Baekdu between November and April during which Samjiyeon Airport has to be closed due to ice on the runaways, and therefore the sightseeing trip is unavailable.
In other words, Mt. Baekdu will be available for half a year for North Korean field trippers and for the rest half for South Korean tourists. However, that is not likely to be a solution since it is difficult to make a trip to Mt. Baekdu during winter due to bad weather conditions. Indeed, the authorities have been restricting the field trip to Mr. Baekdu during the winter period.
A defector from Yangkang Province said, “The authorities may build a new road for tourists or change the tourism schedule.” The defector added, “Once the tour begins, North Korean field trippers will take more interest in South Korean tourists than the legendary struggle for revolution by Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il.”
